Happy Sunday!
Here we all are, in the last hours of 2023, setting the dinner tables and preparing the champagne to send off the year. Ever since 2020, it’s become ever more challenging to be unabashedly optimistic and hopeful of the year to come, although I’m still very much a big optimist for the long run. And since I’ve never been one for end-of-year retrospections and new-year’s-resolutions, I’ll just leave you with two images from yesterday and today, with some thoughts and wishes related to both.
The first photo is a selfie Ellie and I took today, on our stroll around Troitsa, Ellie’s ancestral home village in Northeastern Bulgaria, not far from the Black Sea coast:
It was 17 degrees C this afternoon, the sun was shining, and behind us you can see the ascent of the Shumen plateau and the village of Troitsa, with its characteristic mosque minaret sticking out in the middle. I’ve only been coming here every winter for the last 15 years, but even in this short span of time, the extent of climate change is spectacular. Despite being about 85km from the sea, this place is pretty secluded in the Balkan (Stara Planina) mountain range, and winters were harsh here, until recently. In the last couple of years, it’s been like this, and it gives one thoughts on where things are headed. Global warming feels very real, and if anything, I’m planning to be much more conscious of it in the new, coming year.
The other photo is even less cheerful unfortunately:

This photo was taken this morning from a drone, by Ukrainian photographer Yan Dobronosov. The destroyed building is the Palace Hotel in Kharkiv, Ukraine, which was hit by a Russian Iskander missile yesterday evening around 7pm. Thirty-four guest rooms were occupied during the raid, and at least five people are injured, two of them journalist colleagues of my friend Anna, who works as a stringer for major press agencies, and who messaged me about the attack this morning.
I have a special relationship with this building, as I always stayed in that hotel on my many visits to Kharkiv before 2022. My favorite restaurant in the city, called JORD, was on the ground floor. In March 2019, two days before he won the presidential elections, I stumbled into Volodymyr Zelensky in the lobby together with my friends Zhenya and Oksana, and we had a chat. It turned out the security guards hanging out in front of my room were his, because his room was next to mine.
All of that is destroyed, in another countless act of barbaric cruelty. Russia has no business bombing anything in Ukraine, not even “legitimate” military targets, let alone civilian targets like a hotel where nowadays it’s mostly only foreign journalists and diplomats who stay. For me personally, it’s the first time in this war that a facility I know very well was bombed. It marks another threshold, and the war, again, gets extra personal.
If I should have a New Year’s resolution, it would be to work towards ending Russian fascism. Inevitably, that evil empire will get consumed by internal strife and civil war, and will fall apart, not being able to exert violence outside its borders. Our aim in the West should be to quicken that moment. Every euro spent on supporting Ukraine helps, but also, every action that enables people who live in Russia helps the other side. I’ve formulated for myself a simple principle: anyone who makes or spends money from/in Russia is guilty in this war. I’ve stopped communicating with once-friends and acquaintances who chose to stay there, stopped following their media personalities and consuming any of their content, and have deleted all apps by Russian companies from my devices. What worked in the 20th century can work again; if we install and strictly enforce a complete “iron curtain” between us and the terrorist state, we’ll bankrupt them once again. Together with the heroism and sacrifice of the Ukrainians, that will deal the definitive blow to the biggest security threat in Europe since Hitler.
So with this somewhat heavy message, Ellie and I wish you a fantastic, peaceful, and victorious 2024, full of love and special moments. To echo ABBA, as I did in the title of this letter, “May we all have a vision, now and then, of a world where every neighbor is a friend”. Cheers! 🥂✨ 2️⃣0️⃣2️⃣4️⃣